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Homebuilt 'Solartwin' type system
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Anonwelder
Established Chestnut
Joined: 10 May 2007
Posts: 299
Location: Stockton-on-Tees
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Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 10:03 am Post subject: Homebuilt 'Solartwin' type system
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Hi All.
Last spring, with growing energy prices I did the usual thing and went online to check the most competitive suppliers, but it turned out I was already with them! Uncannily, and on the very same day, I received a circular letter through the door asking if I was interested in having a solar thermal system installed.
I thought a look on the companys website would be good, but they were asking for £3000 installed, so I went looking for a similar DIY system and found these were £2000! It would be a long time before such a system would pay back that sort of expenditure and help me do my bit for the planet.
Further digging revealed a lot of individuals actually made their own systems but with complicated controllers, separate tanks and a myriad of extra pipe work.
I found solartwins' design did away with all that. The best form of flattery being imitation, I decided to copy it. I wanted solar collectors to gather the suns energy, a pump to circulate the water and to be totally zero carbon emissions, a photovoltaic panel to power the pump. I checked with the local council that installing panels would not be contravening any planning regulations etc.
The Solar Thermal panels.
I made a 2400mm x 700mm box using exterior grade timber, lagged using standard loft insulation and on top of that, a sheet of 16 swg aluminium to which I secured 10mm microbore copper pipe wound in a serpentine formation. This I painted matt black using direct to metal matt black paint and finally secured twin-wall polycarbonate to the top. On a sunny, but cold, February day I began testing.
I fitted a fishpond pump to circulate and ran three tests. Air temperature was 4 degrees and water temperature was 6.5 degrees in all cases. Start and end temperatures of the water in the bucket were measured.
Test 1) A bucket of water stood for 30 minutes and measure start and end temperatures. Start Temp= 6.5 degrees, End Temp= 5.5 degrees, so 1 degree LOSS due to air temp being colder obviously.
Test 2) A bucket of water with the pump running inside bucket, but not circulating for 30 minutes and measure start and end temperatures. Start Temp= 6.5 degrees, End Temp= 6.3 degrees, so the pump was generating a little heat, as the LOSS was just 0.2 degrees.
Test 3) A bucket of water with the pump running and circulating through the panel for 30 minutes and measure start and end temperatures. Start Temp= 6.5 degrees, End Temp= 28.5 degrees! A 22 degree GAIN! Fantastic! Warm enough to wash the car with and with air temperature being so cold, it had steam drifting out of it!
After the test I had to drain the panel down, as it would freeze overnight. I disconnected the pump and let the remaining water, which had been in the panel for 30 minutes, run out. I measured this too and found that in a cold February day, the panel gave at 68 degrees centigrade. Amazing!
Installation.
I built a second panel, made some brackets and with some help secured both panels to the roof. I installed a photovoltaic panel on the roof too, to generate 15 watts of power to run the pump. I completed the pipe work to the hot water storage tank in the airing cupboard. Using very thick pipe insulation, everything was lagged to minimise heat loss. After checking all joints, I made the final connection to the pump and the system began to fill.
The system takes the cold water from the bottom of the tank, pumps it around the panels where it heats and returns the heated water to the top of the hot water tank. On 23rd April I had the perfect day to commission, a bright sunny day with air temperature of 16 degrees. Cold water heading for the panels was 15 degrees and after its journey around both panels initially entered the tank at scary 85 degrees C! This was because the pipe work within the panels had heated the standing water inside to a very high temperature, but once this was pumped to the tank, I was getting a consistent 50 degree feed to the tank. I fitted a resistor in parallel across the pump to slow it down to a level where water entering the tank is about 60 degrees at full pelt.
Our domestic washing machine and dishwasher are A rated, meaning they consume the least amount of energy to do a job. Surprisingly, manufacturers can trick the consumer by making equipment that just takes a cold feed so, no energy is lost from its journey from a storage tank or a boiler first. Our appliances are now fed from the hot water cylinder using the free solar heated variety, so electric saved by not using the appliances heater too. The thing I like best is all this is now free energy. It takes no external power to run the pump and the heat gained even on overcast days makes a difference. It is self regulating too, so if little sun, solar electric panel generates little energy, the pump runs slower allowing the water to pick up as much energy as possible and any heat gain is maximised. Excluding the Photovoltaic panel, I spent less than a tenth of what a commercial unit costs and it has paid for itself by November 2006! In fact, during seven weeks in summer, we never used a single whiff of gas. Well, apart from the house boiler's pilot light, but I put paid to that by isolating the supply at the meter.
Alas, while away at work one night, I could not return home and drain the system down as I usually did overnight and the frost did it's worst, splitting the copper microbore in the panels. Undeterred, and the panels having paid for themselves, I decided to further improve the system by;
A) Making one large panel instead of having to link the two
B) Make the frame, not out of timber, but aluminium profile
C) Use frost resistant black silicone tubing within the panels.
D) Use black stove paint as the other was cracking
May 2007, all modications made and the system is giving me a full tank (117 litres) at 61.8 degs on returning home on a fairly sunny day after a start temperature of 28 degs.
Our monthly energy payments were £67 in 2006 and is amended by energy company every year in spring. This year, we got the new bill in and is now £34.50 per month!
I hope some find this work interesting....
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mallettron
Established Chestnut
Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 193
Location: Sheffield, South Yorkshire, England
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Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 1:08 pm Post subject:
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I like this !!!!
You said you used a fishpond pump, can you give more details about this. How did it stand up the the 'hot'water passing through it?
Do you have any photos or diagrams or even links where you can get the microbore?
Some people on here have done their own 'radiators', do you think the copper pipe method would work in this instance
Ronnie
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Ed
Mature Oak
Joined: 15 Apr 2007
Posts: 363
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Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 6:24 pm Post subject:
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Sounds great. Are you heating the water indirectly or directly? Also, how did you attach the copper tube to your aluminium plate?
A few of us are making panels at the moment, and it's been suggested that the serpentine layout might not be as good as one with a top and bottom rail in a kind of a ladder style might be better. Yours sounds like it's working well enough, though.
How long do you reckon that polycarb sheeting will last before it turns yellow/opaque? Until it does, it seems like a good choice, because it's a lot like double glazing, especially if you seal the ends of the cut edges.
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wooden
Hazel Seedling
Joined: 14 May 2007
Posts: 10
Location: Lyndhurst
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Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 6:42 pm Post subject:
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I Read that glass ups the efficiency by allowing the solar heat through, but reflecting the radiated heat from the metal back, have you thought of using this? Also how did you join the copper pipe to the aluminium sheet?
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RickRandom
Hazel Seedling
Joined: 06 Oct 2006
Posts: 26
Location: Beds, UK
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Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 8:41 pm Post subject:
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Excellent!
I thought the SolarTwin was a good but expensive idea, but hadn't got round to doing anything myself.
Like others, I'd be very interested in the details, especially the flexible tubing, the pump, the solar panels, and the overall layout.
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Anonwelder
Established Chestnut
Joined: 10 May 2007
Posts: 299
Location: Stockton-on-Tees
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Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 9:56 pm Post subject:
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mallettron wrote: |
I like this !!!!
You said you used a fishpond pump, can you give more details about this. How did it stand up the the 'hot'water passing through it?
Do you have any photos or diagrams or even links where you can get the microbore?
Some people on here have done their own 'radiators', do you think the copper pipe method would work in this instance
Ronnie |
The fishpond pump (230v) was just to test the heat gain before installation, as at the time I had ordered, but not yet taken delivery of two 12v pumps.
I tried the two pumps but one was hopeless and it is now used to power a garden ornament, the other was prone to cavitation. I have settled on the same type of positive displacement pump as the solar twin. It was actually an old air pump, but I had to modify it so it would shift water.
The microbore originally used was the copper reels available at B&Q, but the black silicone rubber used in the new panel I bought from a company below.
http://www.silex.co.uk/
SILEX
Specialists in Silicone Rubber Products
Unit 4 & 5, Broxhead Trading Estate,
Lindford, Bordon, Hants GU35 0NY
Tel: 01420 487130 Fax: 01420 489274
I have used 8mm bore 2mm wall. Quite expensive at £2.60/ metre and I bought 40 metres of it, but it looks the part and according the the specs, should last for years.
Last edited by Anonwelder on Tue Mar 11, 2008 8:14 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Anonwelder
Established Chestnut
Joined: 10 May 2007
Posts: 299
Location: Stockton-on-Tees
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Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 10:22 pm Post subject:
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Ed wrote: |
Sounds great. Are you heating the water indirectly or directly? Also, how did you attach the copper tube to your aluminium plate?
A few of us are making panels at the moment, and it's been suggested that the serpentine layout might not be as good as one with a top and bottom rail in a kind of a ladder style might be better. Yours sounds like it's working well enough, though.
How long do you reckon that polycarb sheeting will last before it turns yellow/opaque? Until it does, it seems like a good choice, because it's a lot like double glazing, especially if you seal the ends of the cut edges. |
Hi Ed. Water is heated directly. I am aware of your concerns regarding Legionella on this type of system, which is obviously justified and have made sure there are no dead legs and pipe runs are as short as possible. I use the boiler to ensure tank temperature always exceeds 60 degs on days when heat gain does not deliver such temperatures.
Copper microbore was attached to aluminium plate with copper wire salvaged from off cuts of mains ring cable. Where the pipe lay on the ali, drill two 2mm holes, (as close to the pipe as possible) either side of the pipe, thread the copper wire through, like a staple and twist the ends together with a pair of pliers at the back. This pulls the microbore tightly to the plate. Repeat this every so often for the full length of the pipe run to get the maximum pipe to plate contact and thus heat transfer.
Without building an alternative to the serpentine arrangement, I can't offer which gains more. It would be good to use my existing collector and try it, but I really don't want to have another freeze up with copper, so that's why I went for the rubber tube. It could be entirely possible to use rubber in the alternative arrangement to see which does gain more, but if I get enough heat on a semi decent day in May, great.
As for the polycarb, if you go to B&Q, they stock Colortherm, which is UV protection coated on one side only and you need to get the correct side outwards, else it will yellow very quickly. Wickes, however manufacture their own brand, which has two such coatings so should last twice as long, alledgedly.
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Anonwelder
Established Chestnut
Joined: 10 May 2007
Posts: 299
Location: Stockton-on-Tees
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Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 10:44 pm Post subject:
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RickRandom wrote: |
Excellent!
I thought the SolarTwin was a good but expensive idea, but hadn't got round to doing anything myself.
Like others, I'd be very interested in the details, especially the flexible tubing, the pump, the solar panels, and the overall layout. |
Hi RickRandom
For me, the most difficult thing to get right, was the pump.
If you visit the solar twin website, within this pdf document
http://www.solartwin.com/PDF/Solartwin_Installation_Method_Statement.pdf
is a photo of the same type of pump I now use. I did try and order one from them, but they refused. As for the layout, that too is conveniently given in the pdf document too. Anyone wishing to make a homebrew solartwin-type system cannot go far wrong if they at first check their site.
Only real difference between my system and the genuine article is
A) Fraction of the price
B) I used 8mm instead of 6mm bore.
Why 8mm and not 6mm bore? I was concerned that the pump would struggle, but given the way it is performing, I bet 6mm would work fine.
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Anonwelder
Established Chestnut
Joined: 10 May 2007
Posts: 299
Location: Stockton-on-Tees
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Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 11:03 pm Post subject:
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wooden wrote: |
I Read that glass ups the efficiency by allowing the solar heat through, but reflecting the radiated heat from the metal back, have you thought of using this? |
Me and glass really don't mix, unless it is full of good beer that is!
No, a sheet as big as I need really is impractical due to weight and getting it in place, and also the lad next door with his football!
I fitted our conservatory with a polycarb roof 13 years ago and with the door closed and on a sunny day, it gets VERY hot. Also, not yellowed one bit.
Only problem is green algae growth outside, but that's probably common with a glass roofed greenhouse too.
Last edited by Anonwelder on Tue Nov 27, 2007 10:23 am; edited 1 time in total
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Ed
Mature Oak
Joined: 15 Apr 2007
Posts: 363
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 12:52 am Post subject:
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Anonwelder wrote: |
Hi Ed. Water is heated directly. I am aware of your concerns regarding Legionella on this type of system, which is obviously justified and have made sure there are no dead legs and pipe runs are as short as possible. I use the boiler to ensure tank temperature always exceeds 60 degs on days when heat gain does not deliver such temperatures.
Copper microbore was attached to aluminium plate with copper wire salvaged from off cuts of mains ring cable. Where the pipe lay on the ali, drill two 2mm holes, (as close to the pipe as possible) either side of the pipe, thread the copper wire through, like a staple and twist the ends together with a pair of pliers at the back. This pulls the microbore tightly to the plate. Repeat this every so often for the full length of the pipe run to get the maximum pipe to plate contact and thus heat transfer.
Without building an alternative to the serpentine arrangement, I can't offer which gains more. It would be good to use my existing collector and try it, but I really don't want to have another freeze up with copper, so that's why I went for the rubber tube. It could be entirely possible to use rubber in the alternative arrangement to see which does gain more, but if I get enough heat on a semi decent day in May, great.
As for the polycarb, if you go to B&Q, they stock Colortherm, which is UV protection coated on one side only and you need to get the correct side outwards, else it will yellow very quickly. Wickes, however manufacture their own brand, which has two such coatings so should last twice as long, alledgedly. |
Thanks for answering my questions. I plan to wire the pipe to the sheet in the next panel I make. Ouch at £2.60 a metre for the silicone tube. Another thing I wondered about is whether you've got any temperature sensors or timing devices fitted to stop parasitic circulation? Obviously there will be times when you've got a tank full of hot water sitting there that's hotter than the water in the panels, yet the sun is strong enough to drive the pump a little.
Thing is, this bit of circulation is good in that it'll stop your water stagnating in the panel during a week or two of bad weather, so it isn't all bad if it does happen.
Thanks for the polycarb tips, too - I might well switch over to that myself.
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Anonwelder
Established Chestnut
Joined: 10 May 2007
Posts: 299
Location: Stockton-on-Tees
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 9:54 am Post subject:
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Ed wrote: |
Thanks for answering my questions. I plan to wire the pipe to the sheet in the next panel I make. Ouch at £2.60 a metre for the silicone tube. Another thing I wondered about is whether you've got any temperature sensors or timing devices fitted to stop parasitic circulation? Obviously there will be times when you've got a tank full of hot water sitting there that's hotter than the water in the panels, yet the sun is strong enough to drive the pump a little.
Thing is, this bit of circulation is good in that it'll stop your water stagnating in the panel during a week or two of bad weather, so it isn't all bad if it does happen.
Thanks for the polycarb tips, too - I might well switch over to that myself. |
With my freeze up, I would have had a hell of a time removing copper pipe from the sheet to replace it. As it was, just a matter of releasing the copper staples with a pair of side cutters and off it came.
I can imaging a fair bit of plate distortion due to heat input on soldering full length too? Not to mention cost of the gas.
Yes, the silicone IS expensive, but I have 30 meters of useless split copper microbore under my feet now which I paid for last year, so I have no worries about a similar fate with the silicone now.
No timers or temperature sensors are fitted. I have seen many systems which use differential controllers etc, but I subscribe to the KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid!) club. With my system, if the sun is bright enough to generate enough pv power to run the pump, the collector must therefore be warm/hot, so I can pull the heat from the panels. So long as I am feeding cold water to the pump, it will heat water.
I believe the whole point of heating water is to not just to store a full tank of hot, but to use the hot water as soon as it's hot enough for washing etc. Last summer I would be able to use the washing machine four times plus dishwasher once in a day and still end the day with a full hot tank, ready to use the next day for showers etc.
Using water in this manner ensures the hot tank (vented system) is always being fed with cold water from the header tank which is, in turn, heated by the panels. Any parasitic malarky when its used like this can only result in heat gain?
If the weather looks dire for any length of time, I have made provision to run the pump remotely using a Yuasa 12v battery to force circulation. I can just run fresh water through, or drain down and allow the panels to fill when the sun shows its face again.
I aim to have enough stored hot water overnight to have a shower in the morning and hopefully leave the hot tank 'cold', so I can virtually guarantee heat gain, whatever the weather.
As for the polycarb, Wickes stock is 100mm longer than B&Q too. Usually the price is around £19.50, but a month ago I called in and it was down to £13.50 or so. A bargain if you ask me, so buy when the price drops again as they did not include this price in the booklets they keep lobbing through the letterbox.
As for sealing the ends of the polycarb, I don't think this is recommended by the manufacturer. Instead, look for 'breatheable tape' you use on the ends to allow for air expansion, that's what I used.
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cadfael
Ancient Yew
Joined: 19 Mar 2007
Posts: 1280
Location: Noranside, Angus
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 10:06 am Post subject: Algae.
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[quote="Anonwelder"]
wooden wrote: |
I Read that glass ups the efficiency by allowing the solar heat through, but reflecting the radiated heat from the metal back, have you thought of using this? /quote]
Me and glass really don't mix, unless it is full of good beer that is!
No, a sheet as big as I need really is impractical due to weight and getting it in place, and also the lad next door with his football!
I fitted our conservatory with a polycarb roof 13 years ago and with the door closed and on a sunny day, it gets VERY hot. Also, not yellowed one bit.
Only problem is green algae growth outside, but that's probably common with a glass roofed greenhouse too. |
Handy tip for all of you concerned about algae and/or moss growth, fasten scrap copper wire ( if it's green already, so much the better!) along the entire length of the roof, just below the ridge-line...clean roof forever!
Mike.
_________________
Minds are like parachutes, they only work when open.
I don't bodge, I improvise and innovate.
Dogs, logs and chainsaws.
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Anonwelder
Established Chestnut
Joined: 10 May 2007
Posts: 299
Location: Stockton-on-Tees
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 10:25 am Post subject: Re: Algae.
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Quote: |
Handy tip for all of you concerned about algae and/or moss growth, fasten scrap copper wire ( if it's green already, so much the better!) along the entire length of the roof, just below the ridge-line...clean roof forever!
Mike. |
Nice! Will this help rid the roof of existing moss naturally too without scraping/ brushing etc ? Don't fancy clambering about with a pressure washer either.
Last edited by Anonwelder on Tue Nov 27, 2007 10:26 am; edited 1 time in total
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cadfael
Ancient Yew
Joined: 19 Mar 2007
Posts: 1280
Location: Noranside, Angus
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 10:50 am Post subject: Algae
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Hmmm..not too sure about that, I imagine most of it 'll just dry up and blow away...a long handled brush should help tho
Mike.
_________________
Minds are like parachutes, they only work when open.
I don't bodge, I improvise and innovate.
Dogs, logs and chainsaws.
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mallettron
Established Chestnut
Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 193
Location: Sheffield, South Yorkshire, England
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 12:23 pm Post subject:
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[quote]
If you visit the solar twin website, within this pdf document
http://www.solartwin.com/PDF/Solartwin_Installation_Method_Statement.pdf
is a photo of the same type of pump I now use.
[quote]
I think people are wondering where you got your pump from, I assume it has to be one that can cope with temperature extremes and work from a 12v panel at low amps
Ronnie
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